Garrett Oliver came back for another tour of Austin. He comes every few years,
and it is always a pleasure to meet
Garrett Oliver.
I've written about him before, and a blog post on his work wouldn't do him
justice. But you get to enjoy some fun photos of his last appearance at the
Draught House.
He always wins the "Best Dressed Man in Brewing" award from me. He's more put
together than I am. Antonelli's Cheese supplied the
delicious cheese. If at any time Antonelli's is supplying the cheese, you want
to be there.
Here's my unmolested plate and beers. Because I can just take pictures of a
place without touching it.
While I don't have a long list of take-aways from this post, I will leave you
with a short list of all the cheeses you should always have in the fridge in
case company comes over.
Cheddar
Brie
Goat Cheese
Feta
Blue cheese of some kind
And always have a variety of beers in the fridge to go with the cheeses.
So you’re looking to build out your culinary library or you’re looking for a
gift for a sophisticated palate, and you’re just not sure what books to get. I
have curated a list of books that I consider foundation books in a variety of
areas. Any one of these books would make a great gift for the budding food lover
or seasoned eater. I do know several of the book authors, and I can attest that
their personalities make the books even more enjoyable.
Seriously, how can you not want a book by these two?
The Bar Book:Elements of Cocktail Technique by Jeffery Morgenthaler and Martha
Holmberg
is a book about a technique that includes a MacGyver juicing section. There is
even a section on how to shake a cocktail. It isn’t just blending flavors of
spirits in a hand held vessel. It is a passionate dance that infuses the drink
with the maker’s personality. If you don’t believe me, you’re not drinking the
right cocktails.
Ratio: The Simple Code Behind the Craft of Everyday Cooking by Michael Rulhman
is a great book to have on hand whether you’re just beginning to cook or an
experienced chef. For those who are strict recipe followers, this is a great
catalyst to help you start experimenting with recipe changes or developing your
own.
Some
of the best ice cream from Jeni's. And no, it isn't enough.
Jeni's Splendid Ice Creams at Home by Jeni Britton Bauer
is hands down the best ice cream recipes ever. The ice creams are also available
for purchase, but you’ll have more freedom to create what you like at home.
Cooking for Engineers
has made a roasted garlic ice cream that is delicious, and I used the chocolate
recipe to make a
Balcones Brimstone
(smoked whisky) chocolate ice cream. Also, I had some of their ice creams at the
Austin Food and Wine Festival
along with the semi-sweet chocolate topping. It was chocolatey orgasmic.
There's many articles about
chefs doing this that and the other in the food world. However, there are
unsung heroes in the food and beverage that need some time in the limelight.
Doing the right thing in the food world is always popular or praised. And
it is time that we step up the awards and talk about some unsung heroes.
Garrett Oliver from Brooklyn Brewer - Garrett Oliver is the man that every man
in beer wants to be and the man that women want to be with over a pint of beer
at least. Not only did Garrett publish one of the best books on food and
beer pairing,
The Brewermaster's Table, help push forward the Slow Food Movement, and recently win
a James Bear Award, he is one of the most respectable beverage professionals on
the face of the Earth. I'm not saying just saying that he can handle his
booze. What I'm saying is that he is always clean, polished, well-spoken,
and well-dressed. Even after a hours of presenting at a beer pairing
dinner, he is still answering questions with like answers so thoughtfully
crafted and thorough that you would have thought T. S. Eliot was feeding him his
lines.
Austin, you need to look at Garrett,
seriously take a look at this man. He can enjoy his beverages of choice,
responsibly. That, Austin, is attractive.
Some Austin heroes who are also in the
category of responsible beverage professionals:
June Rodil - This pint-size, cute as a button sommelier has an ever growing list
of awards and a resume to match. June is always fashionable,
knowledgeable, and always super sharp.
Tim Schwartz - You'll recognize this Tim's face at many beer events. He's
probably the guy giving you a schooling on beer. Like Garrett, he's
educational, courteous, and likeable when he's enjoying is beverages.
Jamie Zelko
- I had the
opportunity to interview Jamie at the
Austin Food and Wine
Festival in 2013, and I gotta say, she is one sharp knife.
Not only is Jamie incredibly talented, she and Dalia Zelko
founded of the Heights Honeybee
Project. With the colony collapse disorder
affecting crop pollination, Jamie and Dalia recognized the looming food supply
problem. The HHoneyBee-Project was founded to educate and create
sustainable bee colonies. Colonies that would be exterminated are
re-locate them into hives where they might live happily ever after. All proceeds
go back into the HHoneyBee, so that they can take on more hives, maintain them
responsibly, ethically and continue to support the Wild Bee population.
Austin Hero:Charles
Bloemsma, the
executive chef at
Green Pastures in South Austin, raises his own bees and makes his own honey.
He shared a bottle with me several years ago, and it was delicious with a floral
aroma. Also, if you get a chance, check out his brunch at Green Pastures.
Charles + any bread product = magical.
Graham Elliot
lost 150 lbs in one year. When I saw Graham, I nearly fell over in awe.
That is an amazing achievement, and it isn't easy to do when you're surrounded
by fantastic food all the time. Wowzers. He's an inspiration.
Being in food doesn't you must always indulge to the max. A healthy
lifestyle is responsible and something to be proud of doing.
Austin
Heros: Philly Speer, David Bull,
Shawn Cirkiel, and Emmett Fox have
started to leave more healthy lifestyles, or at least they share via social
media they do. Cheers to them for balancing great food with great
workouts.
Written by guest blogger: John M. P. Knox Photos by John Knox (click for more photos) I am a lucky man. Not everybody gets to enjoy not only the flavor of his food and drink, but also a lavish pairing of beverage and dish. If pairings aren't luxury, I don't know what luxury is. In my mind, pairings are the luxury of bank robbers, workaholic investment bankers, and Bond villains. Consider some typical American meals. At McDonald's, do the patrons match their soft drink with their burger? Not that I've seen. Do the busy college students at Starbucks consider their muffin choice when ordering their flavored latte? What about diners at Outback Steakhouse, will they eye the beer selection to find the mate for their Bloomin' Onion? Sadly, they're more likely to choose a beer to match the decor of the restaurant.
I'm not complaining though. Sometimes you just want to relax and eat a meal without thinking too much. And pairings are dangerous. Just like driving a Ferrari will ruin your enjoyment of a Honda, enjoying good food and good drink paired could ruin your enjoyment of the average meal. Olivia Restaurant (2043 S Lamar Blvd Austin, TX 78704 (512) 804-2700) presented the a Brooklyn beer pairing event as a multi-course dinner on their garden patio. Between each course, a new beer was served, and Garrett Oliver or Executive Chef James Holmes would talk a little about the pairing, the food, the history of craft beer in America, and the story behind the beer.
Before the first course was presented, each guest sipped an unusual aperitif: a half glass of Brooklyn Lager. The Lager had a very clear amber color, a short head, and light carbonation. The flavor finished lightly bitter, a quality which matches many more traditional aperitifs. The beer left the palate feeling scrubbed clean and ready for the first course.
As the first course arrived, Garrett stepped from behind his table to tell us a little about his experiences with beer. He spoke of the complementary nature of brewing beer and making wine. "It takes a lot of good wine to make a good beer." Olivia Manager Jerry Reid countered that it takes lots of beer to make a wine. If not true, it should be.
Garrett spoke of how he grew up in the post World War II era of industrialized, uniform food and beer. At some point, Garrett moved to England, where he was bowled over by the world of flavorful European beer. Nothing in his experiences with industrial American beer was comparable, and so he became obsessed with bringing those flavors back home with him. Garrett explained the Lager as being made in the style of a 19th century Viennese beer, but with the addition of a dry hopping step to enhance the aroma. As the number three draft brand in New York City, Garrett considers this his flagship beer.
For the first course, the Brooklyn East India Pale Ale was paired with Oyster Diablo. The ale arrived before the meal, delivering a nice hoppy punch. In contrast to the lager, the East IPA had a dryer, less malty flavor. Hops were the dominating character, although as Garrett explained, these hops offered a less fruity flavor than the typical American IPA. I found that the East IPA's flavor ended cleanly, with a short finish instead of the lingering bitterness found with many other hoppy beers.
The Oysters Diablo arrived on the half-shell, each mated with Olivia-made bacon, spicy tequila butter, and a golden crust of parmesan cheese. The food alone seemed well balanced to my taste. The spice, cheese, and bacon flavors each balanced and complemented each other. The crunchy texture of the cheese and bacon helped give the oyster structure without dominating the plate. Paired with the East IPA, the dish tasted sensational. The hoppy beer and the spicy oysters fought delicious battles in my mouth. As Mr. Oliver pointed out, "Spice and Kick go well with bitter hops." I agree. I felt torn between sadness and anticipation as I finished the crumbs of the last oyster.
The second course featured the Brooklyn Local 1 paired with thinly-sliced yellow fin tuna carpaccio and black truffle aioli under a bed of arugula salad with black lava sea salt. The Brooklyn Local 1 beer was served in wine glasses. The tart, fruity aroma was backed by a fantastic fluffy head of foam resting on the gold-colored unfiltered ale. Mr. Oliver stood up and told us how he bottle conditions the beer using an unusual refermentation process. In a typical beer, the same yeast used in primary fermenbation is re-activated for bottle conditioning. For the Local 1, Garrett pitches a second strain of yeast to condition and carbonate the beer. Extravagant!
A table-mate, Justin Kasulka, described the tuna carpaccio as "A bite of delicious." I don't have better words. The tuna possessed a smooth texture and creamy flavor which complemented the sweet and fruity flavors of the Local 1. To keep it interesting, the arugula and black lava salt offered crunchy textures and a touch of salty with bitter adding a little complexity. Sadly, the sun set before this dish was delivered. I'm not sure that most people were able to appreciate how colorful this dish was. The fresh green arugula on the raw pink of the tuna looked nearly as delicious at the taste.
The third course, orecchiette carbonara with guanciale (cured pork jowl) and Texas quail egg yolk, came paired with the Brooklyn Local 2. The Local 2 features two interesting ingredients: caramelized Belgian syrup and raw wildflower honey. Garrett informed us that he uses 120 pounds of honey per batch of Local 2. All of the honey ferments out to feed the yeast, which must make it incredibly happy. The Local 2 has a lovely dark color and a decent head of foam. It is lightly hopped, sticking to the malty end of the beer spectrum. The flavors were warm, sweet, and a hint of dark bitterness. I would describe its consistency as thick and sticky.
I enjoyed the pairing of the orecchiette and guanciale with Local 2, but it didn't quite live up to the earlier pairings. The dish and the beer tasted fantastic, but the combination didn't explode in my mouth like the East India Pale Ale with the Oysters Diablo. I'm not complaining though, it might be a lower cloud, but I was still in heaven.
The fourth course was South Texas antelope petite filet au poivre with apricot demi, feta cheese, and smashed potatoes. This was paired with the Brooklyn brown ale. The ale produced spicy caramel flavors to counter the antelope's gamey and peppery flavors. In fact, I found the Brown Ale spicier than the antelope, probably owing to the antelope's fantastic apricot demi-glace. The spice of the beer complemented the sweet and spicy flavor of the dish, a glorious combination.
Like the carpaccio, I found the plating of the antelope notable. An otherwise boring brown meal of meat and potatoes was rescued by the addition of colorful apricots and bright feta cheese. I also appreciate that some thought was given to the details: the antelope was placed atop the potatoes and the feta finally sprinkled on top. Despite the sea of delicious sauce, nothing was soggy. The dish must have been freshly plated.
For the final course, we were presented with dessert. Unlike the previous courses, this dish actually boldly combined the beer with the food. This was a Brooklyn Chocolate Stout Float. What floated in the stout? Créme fraiche ice cream. In addition to the float, dishes of candied beer nuts were placed on the table.
The Stout Float was an unusual concoction. The sweet and creamy ice cream floated in the sharp and bitter dark chocolate beer. Despite the name of the beer and the chocolate-like flavor, this beer (and most non "double chocolate" stouts) contains no actual chocolate. The flavors entirely come from the use of roasted malts; they most closely resemble the flavors of a dark chocolate with a high cocoa content.
I felt that the dish was more fascinating than delicious. The combination created an abundance of bitter and creamy tastes which, while flavorful, seemed to obscure the complexity of the beer. I would have preferred the ice cream served on the side. In the interest of full disclosure, I'll confess that I usually prefer other desserts over ice cream. Someone who craves ice cream floats might have felt differently. Again, the pairing was good, but I felt the direct application of ice cream to the beer cheated me out of the complexity of the beer's flavor. The candied beer nuts worked wonders with the float. The salty and sweet nuts both complemented and contrasted with the bittersweet float. I found the combination quite addictive.
I'll remember this night as setting a high bar for beer pairings. Certainly the oysters diablo with the East India Pale Ale and tuna carpaccio paired with Local 1 both get gold medals from me. I have experienced some good pairings at the Great American Beer Festival, but tasting a bite of food with an ounce of beer hardly compares to entire dishes and meals mated to full glasses of beer. To really get an appreciation of a dish with its beer pairing you need time and enough food to contemplate the interaction. After five courses, you will understand the harmony of beer and food.
I'm serious about the pairings spoiling my appreciation of ordinary meals. I find it difficult to eat anywhere and not contemplate what beer might go well with my meal. I feel despondent when faced with a restaurant stocked with only yellow fizzy lagers or wines. To understand my problem, you really need to try a beer pairing event for yourself. Just don't say that I didn't warn you.
Without a doubt, Garrett Oliver is the King of Beer and Food. The man is not only knowledgeable in both domains, he is a wonderfully charming speaker that leaves the crowd swooning. Yes, swooning. As a founding member of Slow Food USA (check out this event in Austin) and culinary globetrotter, his short lectures at beer dinners are enlightening and humorous. The Brooklyn Brewery dinner at Alamo Drafthouse Lake Creek is no exception. A big thanks to Nate Seale and the Alamo Drafthouse for having me as their guest.
The first dish up was Poutin - frites (fries) with Wisconsin cheese curds, brown gravy, and peppered bacon paired with Brooklyn Local 2. The Local 2 was an excellent match that cut through the fat (mmmm.....fat) content in this dish.
Second course was Chingri Malai - prawns, curry, lemongrass, and coconut milk paired with Brooklyn Cuvee De Cardoz. This food and beer pairing was my absolute favorite. This brightly flavored beer was the collaboration between brewmaster Garrett Oliver and Floyd Cardoz, executive chef at New York City restaurant Tabla. The spice profile on this beer leaves you thinking, "I like it, but I'm not really sure what it is." The creamy and spicy Chingri Malai was the perfect accompaniment. A big kudos to Chef Paul and Brewmaster Garrett Oliver for bringing these two fabulous offerings together.
I like the icon in the back.
Waterzooi - Belgian chicken stew with baguette served with Brooklyn Local 1. Oh wheeee!
Pumpkin Graham crackers, local 2 marshmallows, and Belgian Chocolate smores paired with Brooklyn Black Chocolate Stout. I've said many times that photos are worth a thousand words. Yep. I'm speechless, but I have a picture. This pairing was also amazingly delicious. I should add that both the pumpkin graham cracker and marshmallows were made in house.
Afterwards, I had a chance to chat with Garrett and Chef Paul for a while, and I got a spiffy autographed pint glass.
Chilling with Garrett and Paul
My uber spiffy autographed pint glass.
This dinner was fantastic. As you can see from the photos and my smiling mug, you ought not miss the next one.
Love craft beers and love food? There are two events in Austin that you do not want to miss. In every profession, there at least one or more respected paradigm mover. In food, there's Julia Child. She brought French cooking to America. In dog training, there's Cesar Milan. Regardless if you agree or disagree with Cesar's methods, there is no denying that Cesar Milan got dog owners thinking about dog behavior and interested in training their pets. In beers and food pairings, that person is Garrett Oliver. Until recently, food and wine dominated formal dinner tables, but The Brewmaster's Table changed that. Beer dinners are now popping up all over the map, and Austin is no exception.
Getting my book signed at the Great American Beer Festival by John Knox
If you haven't started reading The Brewmaster's Table yet, start now. Not only is the book chock full of beer information, it is very obvious that Garrett is an skilled chef and fantastic writer. The book can make me hungry, thirsty, and laugh all in one paragraph. Read what he writes about pork belly and smoked beers. This man is passionate about real food and real beer. Not only is the book information and entertaining, the first few sections describe how Garrett started in the beer, by following a passion he developed while tasting fine beers in Europe. I have the utmost respect for people who find a passion, enjoys it, works at developing it, and spreads that joy (yes, beer is joy!) to others. Austin is very lucky to have Garrett Oliver, award winning brewmaster of Brooklyn Brewery, to host two dinners in Austin. He will also be hosting a tasting event at the Dixie Cup in Houston (their server is down, sorry), and Slow Food Austin will be hosting a cheese, honey, and beer tasting.
Thursday, Oct. 15th. 7pm. Olivia. 2043 S Lamar Blvd Austin, TX 78704 (512) 804-2700 $75 per person, includes tax and tip.
I recently visit Olivia when they had their first year anniversary and Bon Appetit celebration. Bon Appetit named Olivia one of the top ten new restaurants in the United States. Photos by John Knox.
Lamb Corazon: lamb heart wrapped in jalapeno and prosciutto served with yapon honey
Bison Tartare
Milk braised pork shoulder on gnocchi
Brooklyn Brewery Beer Dinner Menu
7 pm Thursday October 15th, 2009
Brooklyn Lager
Aperitif
*
Brooklyn East India Pale Ale
Oyster Diablo baked gulf oyster with a spicy-tequila butter, house-made bacon and a parmesan crust
*
Brooklyn Local 1
Yellow Fin Tuna Carpaccio, boggy creek farm arugula salad with a black truffle aioli and black lava sea salt
*
Brooklyn Local 2
Orriccietta Carbonara with house made guanciale and texas quail egg yolk
*
Brooklyn Brown Ale
South Texas Antelope Petite Filet au Pouve with a apricot demi, pure luck feta cheese and smashed fingerling potatoes with mesquite infused texas olive oil
*
Brooklyn Black Chocolate Stout
Brooklyn Black Chocolate Stout float with crème fraiche ice cream and toasted salty beer nuts
via Alamo's website
Brooklyn Beer Dinner at Alamo Lake Creek 13729 Research Blvd, Austin, TX 78750 General Info:512-219-5408
Sunday October 18th 7:30pm $50 (Price includes admission, feast and beer pairings)
The Alamo Lake Creek is pleased to announce our latest beer tasting event featuring Brooklyn Brewery from Brooklyn (duh), New York. The night will feature a multi-course meal paired with many of the fine Brooklyn beer offerings. We are very lucky to have the man himself, Head Brewmaster at Brooklyn, and author of The Brewmaster's Table: Discovering the Pleasures of Real Beer with Real Food, Mr. Garrett Oliver. Garrett will be in attendance to describe the brewing process and answer all of your questions while presenting each food and beer course. Get your tickets now, while they are still available!
The Menu will include:
-Poutin
Frites with Wisconsin cheese curds, brown gravy, and peppered bacon
*Paired with Brooklyn Local 2
-Chingri Malai
Prawns, curry, lemongrass, and coconut milk
*Paired with a super secret Brooklyn offering you will just have to come and find out for yourself
-Waterzooi
Belgian chicken stew with baguette
*Paired with Brooklyn Local 1
-Pumpkin graham crackers
Local 2 marshmallows, and Belgian chocolate smores
*Paired with Brooklyn Black Chocolate Stout
Also, in Houston, the Garrett Oliver will also be having a food and beer tasting at the Dixie Cup. Details are still TBA as their server is down, but I do have the menu.
Live Oak Hefeweizen(Traditional German Hefe) – Salad: greens, fresh goat cheese, roasted red peppers, balsamic vinaigrette.
Fredericksburg Oktoberfest (traditional) with Bratwurst and Senf 512 IPA (American, fruity hop profile) with Indian-spiced crab cake Uncle Billy’s Smoked Schwartz (Very malty, porter-like) – Fatty brisket brioche slider
Uncle Billy’s Keller Pils (GABF category winner) - Shrimp Satay Real Ale ESB cask (traditional ESB) – Extra-crispy deep-fried chicken wings
Brooklyn Black Chocolate Stout – Chocolate Mud Cake
Another beer and food event coming up is the 1st annual Slow Food Austin Fundraiser
Raw Talk & Tasting: Raw-Milk Cheese Meets Local Hops and Honey
In the United States, the sale of raw milk cheeses that are aged less than 60 days is illegal. Fortunately, Slow Food’s Presidia program is working to protect this delectable artisan food, and at the recent Cheese 2009 event in Bra, Italy, Slow Food focused on pairing beer with cheese.
Cathy Strange, Global Cheese Buyer for Whole Foods Market, will lead an educational presentation and tasting of raw-milk cheeses complemented by the hand-crafted beers of Austin’s (512) Brewing CompanyRound Rock Honey. and local honey from
At this first annual fundraiser for Slow Food Austin you will enjoy an evening of unique flavors, meet some of their producers and mingle with other Austinites who share a passion for slow food.
And don’t plan on leaving empty-handed. Our silent auction is chock full of Austin’s most delicious and quaffable goodies, as well as unforgettable culinary experiences. Tour the Austin Farmer’s Market with a local expert, then have dinner cooked at your house using the market’s most mouthwatering offerings. Join a CSA. Expand your culinary skills with lessons from a local chef. Leave Barr Mansion with your arms laden with premier wines, gift certificates to your favorite local merchants, and organic taste treats. Featuring Austin Wine Merchant, Thai Fresh, Wine Styles, Edible Austin, Green Gate Farm and many more, this silent auction will be the most delectable in Austin’s history.
Get your tickets in advance to ensure a seat at the table in the beautiful Barr Mansion setting. October 21, 2009
6:30–8:30 pm
Barr Mansion
Tickets: $50 ($40 Slow Food members)
Seriously, how can you not want a book by these two?
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